Lafarge's superb 1999 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is just entering late adolescence, and while it remains a young wine, it is beginning to make for interesting drinking. Unfurling in the glass with notes of dark chocolate, espresso roast, orange rind, dark fruits and rich soil tones, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered, with a classy sense of reserve, excellent concentration and refined but chalky tannins that convey a strong Clos des Chênes signature. Three decades of fireworks are just beginning!