The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Chevret is lovely, unwinding in the glass with scents of cassis, smoke, plums and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, layered and elegantly muscular, it's more mineral and tightly wound than the charming Clos des Angles. This is a promising proposition for the cellar.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Chevret offers up lovely aromas of dark chocolate, plums, cassis and rich soil. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and expansive, with a lavish attack that segues into a more tensile, firm mid-palate and finish.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru En Chevret, which comes from 45- and 65-year-old vines cropped at 12 hectoliters per hectare with 50% whole bunch fruit. It has a perfumed, floral bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, crushed stone and crushed rose petals all nicely defined, brown spices developing later. The palate is juicy and thickly textured on the entry, one big mouthful of Volnay with a Pommard like backbone. This is clearly built for aging, aloof and rather foreboding at this early stage and so afford it several years in bottle.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Chevret comes from more limestone soils and was showing just a touch of sur-maturity on the nose, with a touch of menthol slightly blurring the red cherry and kirsch aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and shows more control than the nose. It offers dark cherries, spice box, orange rind and brown spices, the acidity nicely judged but it does not quite possess the precision of the Clos des Angles on the finish. Drink over 5-8 years.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Chevret has a little more tension and complexity compared to the Caillerets, blackberry, cold stone and a touch of bilberry jam coming through while maintaining its precision. The palate is very nicely balanced, the 50% whole cluster fruit very discrete, with fine mineralité and impressive tension on the precise, tensile and linear finish. There is a touch of conservatism here, but I like the energy here that I hope will be in position once in bottle.