Tasted at the vertical tasting in London, the 2001 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes shot above everyone's expectations, perhaps including Frédéric Lafarge seated opposite, commenting that this was picked particularly late. It has a lightly ferrous bouquet with blackberry and raspberry preserve scents that gently unroll with a few swirls of the glass. Medium-bodied in the mouth, it is adorned with lovely dark cherry, bay leaf and Chinese tea scents. It is quite masculine in style. You might even describe this as "moody." Unlike other vintages, the 2001 is not yearning to be loved, yet that makes it even more intriguing and merely serves to draw you in to its charms. Drink now and over the next decade. Tasted November 2015.

A tight, tannic, and rustic wine, the light ruby-colored 2001 Volnay Clos des Chenes offers a light-bodied personality with appealing red and black berry fruit. It should be drunk over the next 2-3 years. A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers.