The 1972 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes was a testament to the greatness of this vineyard and its namesake winemaker, Michel Lafarge. Deep garnet in color, the nose is rustic and a little ferrous, dark plum mixed with blackcurrant leaf, but what freshness and crispness. The palate is medium-bodied and underpinned by rigid tannins that make it seem more like a Pommard. The fruit here is more black than red, infused with Japanese nori and tobacco. Like the aromatics, this is totally commensurate with its age and yet still offers so much freshness and character, exuding a sense of place like few wines can. This is a gem and well-kept bottles will represent just about the best that the C?te de Beaune delivered in this growing season. Tasted November 2015.