A classic rendition of this great wine, the 1991 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes opens in the glass with a complex bouquet of red-black fruit, cocoa nib, grilled game, wood smoke and a touch of potpourri. On the palate, the wine is rich and full-bodied, with a chassis of fine-grained tannins, bright acidity and lovely length and intensity. A wine that is more about complexity and quiet depth than drama or flamboyance.