Tasted at the Clos des Chênes vertical in London, the 1990 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes has darker fruit than the 1991, noticeable undergrowth aromas that infuse those blackberries and bilberries, turning more towards Japanese green tea scents with aeration. Mercurial and captivating! The palate is fleshy and ripe as you would expect with respect to such a warm growing season, yet it maintains very fine balance, refined and sappy with a saline, foursquare finish that suggests this has reached its peak and you should uncork any bottles sooner, rather than later. Very fine indeed. Tasted November 2015.