Tasted at the Clos des Chênes vertical, the 1998 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes was one of the surprise packages within the flights of recent vintages. Frédéric Lafarge commented that this was a vintage "for those that worked hard." It has a surprisingly aromatic, almost corpulent bouquet with black plum, Hoisin and wild strawberry sprinkled with white pepper and a hint of morel mushrooms. The palate has a wonderful sense of balance, real finesse here with lace-like tannin and an exquisite, harmonious vintage that really dispels the notion of this being a difficult Burgundy vintage. Frédéric and Michel Lafarge must have worked very hard this year. Tasted November 2015.
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