The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is a long way from maturity, but it was far from inscrutable after an hour’s decant, offering up a beautifully precise bouquet of plum, griotte cherry, peony and forest floor. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, textural, refined and multidimensional, with succulent acids, compelling structural harmony and a long, sapid finish. A very impressive showing, living up to its promise from barrel.