Tasted at the Clos des Chênes vertical in London, the 1937 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes was offered by Frédéric Lafarge from his own cellar. This bottle would have been made by his grandfather, Henri Lafarge, and it nonchalantly defied all expectations. The color is clearly and surprisingly youthful. It has a stunning bouquet that is difficult to describe in words: blackberry and juniper berries, a touch of mint develop with aeration, gradually unfurling with each swirl of the glass and keeping you on your toes, wondering what will be revealing next. The palate is medium-bodied with a sublime sense of balance. I noticed just a hint of cough candy here, great substance and density, perhaps not the most finessed ancient Pinot Noir that I have tasted, but the length and undiminished vigor is sufficient to take your breath away. Tasted November 2015.
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