Lafarge's 1980 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes was striking, soaring from the glass with notes of blood orange, warm spices, plums, sweet berry fruit and woodsmoke. Medium to full-bodied, deep and penetrating, its vivid core of fruit is framed by a bright spine of acidity and fine, chalky tannins. This wine is more about perfume and precision than plenitude, but it's one of the finest C?te de Beaune reds of the vintage.
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