The 2010 Aurus is what De Gregorio considers the golden formula (aurus is gold in Latin) for blending 85% Tempranillo and 15% Graciano from a number of head-pruned vineyards in Briones averaging 60 years of age, which fermented in French oak vats, carried out its malolactic fermentation in new French oak barrels, and completed its upbringing over two years with rackings every four months before being bottled unfiltered and unfined. The difference here is that these are north-facing vineyards, with clay and gravel soils that produced austere wines. This is a much more serious wine, closed in the nose, elegant, subtle, with balsamic notes, mint, more mineral than fruity (produced with stones instead of fruits, I joked, but in a way it was true!). The palate reveals a tight, compact wine, with fine-grained tannins, straight and vertical, with great acidity and a mineral finish. 2010 is a superb Aurus! Drink 2016-2030. Miguel Angel de Gregorio, proprietor and alma mater of Finca Allende, was born in La Mancha, but at the tender age of six months he moved to Rioja, as his father was in charge of viticulture at the Ygay estate from Marques de Murrieta. Miguel Angel grew up in Ygay, surrounded by vines and wine, and it was difficult to see how he’d escape the wine world. After his oenology studies he got a job as technical director of (the now disappeared) Bodegas Breton, and in 1994 he started his own project, making a carbonic maceration wine he aged in oak that he called Allende, meaning, far away. He has come a long way since, becoming one of the most prominent winemakers in Rioja and the whole of Spain. Allende was expanded with another two projects, Finca Nueva in Rioja and Finca Coronado in his native La Mancha. He likes 2010, which he calls the best vintage he’s ever lived, including 1981, when he started, and that’s saying something, as 1981 remains one of the great vintages, much better than the acclaimed 1982. He has and expresses his strong opinions quite vehemently. For example, he does not really consider 2005 a great vintage, he prefers 2004. He told me that in Rioja Alta the greatest vintages have always been the late, cool vintages. He considers 2011 a warm year, the same as 2009, and you feel it in the wines. 2012 is more balanced, despite being very dry, but with freshness. It’s worth remembering that Briones, where his winery and vineyards are, is a clay terroir with no limestone. Imported by Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767