Miguel Angel de Gregorio makes wines that match his exuberant personality, and Aurus, with 85% old-vine Tempranillo and 15% Graciano, is his premier offering. The 2001’s exotic nose pumps licorice, clove, nutmeg and vanilla on top of the ripest black-fruit aromas going. With pillowy tannins, unmatched breadth and huge flavors of blackberry, plum and chocolate, there’s no denying this wine’s quality and stature.——M.S.(6/1/2005)—— 96