The Aurus is an interesting offering, but the pricing is out of line. The wine is an unfiltered blend of 95% old vine Tempranillo and 5% Graciano that was aged in French oak. I preferred the 1998 Aurus to the 1999, for its sweet black cherry and blackberry, smoke, tar, graphite, and new saddle leather bouquet. Medium-bodied, ripe, and concentrated, it should age nicely for a decade or more. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 1998 Aurus has an attractive meaty, Rhone-like bouquet with subtle licorice and soy aromas developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, with firm tannins and dried herbs and seaweed interlacing the rather conservative, chewy finish. Drink now. Commencing with the Allende Blanc, I was impressed by how well this ages. Predominantly Viura with a higher percentage of Malvasia in older vintages, it develops a fine waxy texture and almost dried Barsac-like personality.