The 2004 Aurus is not quite as large-scaled as the 2005 but makes up for it with elegance. This stylish wine has a splendid perfume of sandalwood, incense, truffle, Asian spices, lavender, and black cherry leading to an already complex, spicy, savory wine with superb volume and mouth-coating flavors. Give it another 4 years of cellaring and drink it through 2034. Collectors will discuss the merits of 2004 and 2005 for many years to come. The Calvario Vertical Tasting : Allende’s Calvario cuvee is typically 90% old-vine Tempranillo and the balance Garnacha and Graciano sourced from the vineyard of the same name planted in 1945. The wine is aged in new French oak for 16 months and bottled without filtration. The Aurus Vertical Tasting : The flagship Aurus is typically 85% old-vine Tempranillo and 15% Graciano aged in new French oak for 24 months.Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2003 was declassified and blended into the Allende, so moving swiftly on, the 2004 Aurus has a classy bouquet of dark plum, lavender, dried herbs and spice box that is very complex and satisfying. The palate is medium-bodied with taut tannins and impressive purity: dark cherry and dark plum infused with marmalade and white pepper. The finish is dense and backward, suggesting that it requires four to five years bottle age. Drink 2015-2025+ Commencing with the Allende Blanc, I was impressed by how well this ages. Predominantly Viura with a higher percentage of Malvasia in older vintages, it develops a fine waxy texture and almost dried Barsac-like personality.

Luscious blueberry and black plum flavors mingle with espresso and anise notes in this expressive red. The tannins are firm yet well-integrated, balanced by lively acidity. Drink now through 2016. 125 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

Big deep berry aromas, well-balanced oak. A big, bitter palate. Probably high alcohol, but long and satisfying.

One half of the wine is lush and opulent, the other juicy, fresh and pulsing with the essence of old-vines Rioja fruit. So for every note of molasses, burnt toast, chocolate or baked berry pie, there’s a twinge of acidity, a spike of tannin and a dollop of earthy terroir. Tempranillo with 15% Graciano. 500 cases made. Imported by Tempranillo, Inc.——M.S.(9/1/2007)—— 94