The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques has a very expressive bouquet, again quite refined and natural with fragrant dark cherry, strawberry fruit mingling with dried rose petals and sea spray. The palate is very sensual on the satin-like opening that builds in the mouth, revving up toward a gorgeous, harmonious finish of dark berry fruit mixed with a touch of spice on the aftertaste that lends it length. Wonderful. Drink 2015-2025. Claude Dugat guided me through his 2011s on a blissful July morning, the flowers in such bloom that at one point he questioned whether I was wearing any scent. For the record, I have never worn aftershave in my life. Claude’s wines are deftly made, occasionally lifted by the new oak to the extent where I feel less would be more, but still highly enjoyable. Importer: Robert Kracher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275