The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques is a dramatic, broad-shouldered wine that unwinds in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis, espresso roast, rich soil tones and petals. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and muscular, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a fleshy core of fruit, this is beginning to become approachable, even if it's still really a decade away from its plateau of maturity.