The excellent drainage in its terroir certainly helped the 2000 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux-St.-Jacques in this rain-soaked vintage. Its gorgeously spicy nose gives way to a lush, ripe, velvety personality jam-packed with black cherries. Exhibiting outstanding depth, concentration, and clarity of flavors, this refined, expressive wine also reveals a long, supple finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. When asked if he had a preference between the 2000s and 2001s, the self-effacing Claude Dugat responded that “I like them about the same, even though the 2000s have a roundness that particularly appeals to me.” Later in the conversation, when I commented on the firm nature of his 2001s, he said “reaching full (grape) maturity was a real problem in 2001, but these wines will soften considerably at bottling when the CO2 is removed.” Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083