The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques opens with sweet, floral notes that meld into spices and dark red fruits. Textured and enveloping throughout, the Lavaux St. Jacques impresses for the sheer pleasure it provides. The finish remains a bit taut, but in another few years this should be a gem. It is a dazzling wine from Claude Dugat. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Claude Dugat farms 16 hectares, of which only 3 are owned. Dugat waited until September 20 to start harvesting. The fruit was 100% destemmed and spent 15 days on the skins with two punchdowns a day and no pumpovers. The wine was pressed, left 48 hours to decant and moved into barrel. The wines were racked the following April and were bottled with no fining or filtration. The Bourgogne were aged in neutral oak, the Villages and 1ers saw 50% new oak and the Grand Crus saw 100% new oak. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083