From relatively young vines (though you’d never guess by the taste), the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques takes a leap up in quality, offering outstanding depth of sweet, ripe cherry, dried cranberry and peach preserves, impressive meatiness, and bracingly salty, bitter-sweet shrimp shell-like, as well as implacably chalky minerality. A certain not unpleasant tartness of fruit and chewy tannin creep into the finish, which exhibits the sort of youthful stamina and energy one anticipates just staring at the youthfully deep purple pool that is a glass of Claude Dugat Gevrey. Visit this dynamic wine in 6-8 years, although it should then have the makings of another decade’s interesting evolution. Known for his low yields and intensely concentrated Pinots (all but the Bourgogne raised in new barrels), Claude Dugat – with the increasing involvement of his son Bertrand – has rendered a formidable 2005 collection that makes no concessions to early charm. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.