Light to medium-bodied and tightly wound, the raspberry-scented 2001 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux-St.-Jacques, produced in one of its commune’s cooler vineyards, has a vivacious personality. Strawberries, red currants, and raspberries are found throughout its fresh character as well as in its long, tannic finish. Projected maturity: 2004-2009. When asked if he had a preference between the 2000s and 2001s, the self-effacing Claude Dugat responded that “I like them about the same, even though the 2000s have a roundness that particularly appeals to me.” Later in the conversation, when I commented on the firm nature of his 2001s, he said “reaching full (grape) maturity was a real problem in 2001, but these wines will soften considerably at bottling when the CO2 is removed.” Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083