The dark ruby-colored 1997 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques displays a nose reminiscent of a compote of black fruits and fresh herbs. It explodes on the palate with plummy fruit, a satin texture, and an ample body. Luscious and rich, it verges on being over-ripe, yet has a flattering streak of freshness to its personality. Projected maturity: now-2006. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.