The Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques' bouquet leaps from the glass, offering gobs of sweet berry fruit, spice, and toasty pain grillee notes. Rich and velvety-textured with layers of fruit, this medium to full-bodied wine has the essence of black-cherry fruit. It can be drunk now or cellared for 10-12 years. As the ratings attest, Claude Dugat, working in his 13th century abbey/wine cellar called Cellier des Dimes, hit several home runs in the 1993 vintage. His whole berry fermentation provides more fruit, but in his modest manner, Claude takes no credit for what are once again profound red Burgundies. No wonder when Lalou Bize-Leroy purchased wine for her negociant firm, she made this cellar one of her frequent stops. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083