The 2021 Chambertin Grand Cru is lovely, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet wild berries, vine smoke, orange zest, peonies and spices, framed by a deft application of classy new oak. Full-bodied, sensual and seamless, with supple tannins that frame a layered mid-palate, it concludes with a long, perfumed finish.

While I think the 2020 iteration is likely to turn out even better, Mortet's 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru is fabulous. Soaring from the glass with scents of red berries, plums, blood orange, peonies, rose petals and exotic spices, it's full-bodied, ample and velvety, with terrific concentration and a long, mouthwatering finish. Seamless and complete, despite its charming, elegant profile, it will warrant some bottle age.

There are three new barrels of the 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru, an integrated but reserved wine that offers up notes of dried rose petals, grilled meats, espresso roast and sweet berries. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and satiny, with excellent depth and a tight-knit core that's framed by a fine but firm chassis of structuring tannins. Less forthcoming than the Mazis-Chambertin and Bonnes-Mares, it likely also has a longer future.