Tasted at the Denis Mortet Chambertin vertical, the 1996 Chambertin Grand Cru is one of Mortet's better wines from the decade. It has a slightly meaty, dried blood-tinged bouquet that is very savory, hints of bacon fat becoming more and more prominent as it opens. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, truffle tones coming through with time, though the finish is resolutely obdurate and slightly austere. Not bad, but not lovable either. Tasted January 2016.
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