Tasted blind at the Denis Mortet Chambertin vertical, the 1994 Chambertin Grand Cru was showing some bricking on the rim that gave away its age. It has a fragrant bouquet with orange blossom, brown sugar and ginger, even a touch of rhubarb. It sounds quite evolved and it was, yet it maintains freshness and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with dusty tannin, a little faded by time and lacking energy, though frankly I have tasted a lot worse 1994 red Burgundy grand crus than this. It holds up well in the glass, a Chambertin approaching the end of its drinking plateau and I suggest, deserving a polite round of applause. Tasted January 2016.
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