A staggering Chardonnay that’s still an infant, the light yellow/green/gold 2007 offers up notes of unbuttered popcorn, orange liqueur, lemon butter, quince and crushed rocks. It possesses terrific underlying acidity, a full-bodied mouthfeel and a youthfulness and freshness that suggest this wine has two decades of life ahead of it. This majestic Chardonnay seems more French than Californian, but again, this reflects the significance of the labor of these two overachieving, push-the-envelope visionaries. What California viticulture and high-class, minimalist winemaking can achieve is exhibited in bold fashion by this 2007. It will hit its prime in 5-7 years, and appears to be a replay of the 2002 stylistically as well as for its overall potential. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633