Buttery brioche, honeyed citrus, caramelized pear and lemon, and a distinct earthy aroma jump from the glass of this light medium gold-colored wine. More buttery than most Marcassin Chardonnays, with good acidity, this deep, rich, full-bodied beauty is somewhat outclassed by some of the compelling efforts that have been produced at this magical vineyard. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633