The 1996 comes across like a mature yet great Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne. The first vintage bottled from their original plantings of ten acres, this was the finest showing yet of the 1996. A potent nose of white corn, citrus butter and crushed rocks is followed by a full-bodied, powerful wine displaying wonderful delineation, fresh acidity, hints of orange and tangerine rind as well as wet gravel, and a stony, citrusy, buttery component. Remarkably, the wine still possesses a surprisingly light gold color with a greenish hue. This magnificent Chardonnay is one of the most profound efforts ever made from this varietal in California. Even more shocking, it should have 10-20 more years of life remaining if kept in a cold cellar. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633