Probably the biggest sleeper vintage in the tasting (I had not expected this wine to perform so well), I have always had a preference for the 2002, but in this tasting, the 2001 revealed abundant notes of candied oranges, brioche, hazelnuts, caramelized lemon and hints of pineapple and mandarin. With a youthful color, huge body and enormous richness and length, this multidimensional, young wine has 10-15 years ahead of it. It is a remarkable achievement. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633

From one of the New World’s true grand cru vineyards, and always a candidate for Chardonnay of the vintage since its debut release in 1996, the 2001 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard boasts a liqueur of rocks characteristic in its big, leesy, honeysuckle-scented nose, along with buttery, caramelized citrus, a hint of tropical fruit, huge, ripe notes of nectarines, smoke, and minerals. This beautiful Chardonnay should hit its prime in 2-3 years, and last for a decade. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633