Not surprisingly, the 2002 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is tight, but has come on like gang busters and is certainly a remarkable effort. Tasting like a prodigious Chevalier-Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne, it exhibits wonderfully subtle notes of nectarine, hazelnut, crushed rock, white currants, and a touch of smoke and earth. Full-bodied with great acidity, this glorious effort may be the Chardonnay of the vintage. It should drink well for at least a decade. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633