From what may be the most difficult vintage Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer have confronted in their careers, the 1998 is a monumental effort that has reached full maturity, but is in no danger of falling apart. It reminds me of a top Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet from the 1980s and early 1990s. With hints of citrus butter, crushed seashells, honeysuckle, guava, pear and smoke intermixed with lots of glycerin, this is one of their more powerful, alcoholic Chardonnays (14.9% alcohol). Wet gravel/earthy/volcanic notes are also detectable in this full-bodied, gorgeously youthful, light gold/green-colored 1998. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633

The 1998 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is a phenomenal effort! Its 14.9% alcohol is hidden beneath a cascade of aromas and flavors suggesting a liqueur made from crushed seashells, candied citrus, honeysuckle, and lemon butter. It is rich and full-bodied, with an unctuous texture, good acidity that provides a significant framework for the wine's intensity and concentration, and an extraordinary finish. This is a virtually perfect Chardonnay ... again! Drink it over the next decade. (Release date 9/02)Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633