An evolved medium gold color (no greenish hue) rivals a handful of the older looking Chardonnays that were a rarity in this vertical tasting. More honeyed brioche notes are intertwined with notions of damp earth, dense, rich fruit and tighter aromatics. Well-made, full-bodied and rich, but monolithic, it will last another 5-10 years, but I doubt it will be one of the most brilliant wines of the group. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633

The flagship wine, aged in 100% new French oak, is the 2003 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate. It came across as a California Corton-Charlemagne look-alike, with aromas of white fruits intermixed with brioche, hazelnut, liquified rocks, and a touch of gun flint. The wine has glorious richness, crisp underlying acidity, some hints of orange blossom, great structure, and a soaring, long finish of close to a minute. This is a stunner that is about as compelling as any Chardonnay made in the world. It should drink well for up to a decadel. Previously recommended: 2002 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard (99), 2002 Chardonnay Three Sisters (96), 2002 Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch (95), 2002 Pinot Noir Blue Slide Ridge (95+), 2002 Pinot Noir Bondi Home Ranch (94), 2002 Pinot Noir Marcassin Estate (98), 2002 Pinot Noir Three Sisters (96).Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633