The surprisingly youthful, light gold/greenish-colored 2000 exhibits a bouquet of mandarin oranges, buttered citrus, brioche, smoke, toast and honeyed pears. This young, full-bodied wine is not yet as complex as some older vintages, but it is bright, vibrant and exuberant. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633

The exquisite 2000 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is a broad, gorgeously perfumed, light green/gold-colored effort revealing tremendous power as well as notes of hazelnuts intermixed with white peaches, citrus oils, and other exotic fruits. It has great depth, tremendous delineation, a firm underpinning of acidity, and a 50-second finish. This spectacular Chardonnay once again proves that this is one of northern California’s great Chardonnay (and Pinot Noir) vineyards. It should be decanted prior to service, and promises to be one of California’s longest lived Chardonnays. (Not yet released)Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633