Although tight, the 1997 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard offers up gorgeous notes of liquified oranges, hazelnuts, and citrus oils, with high levels of acidity, a backward, full-bodied palate impression, and a finish that lasts over 40 seconds. It requires another 4-6 months of bottle age, and should age effortlessly for a decade. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633

Revealing a tell-tale greenish hue to its deep gold color (which is more mature and older looking than the 1996s), the 1997 exhibits aromas of roasted hazelnuts, smoke, brioche, honeyed melons and honeysuckle. Although it is neither as complex nor compelling as the 1996 (it’s hard to follow an utterly perfect wine), it is a full-bodied Chardonnay offering notes of liquified tropical fruit, good acidity, and a slightly more monolithic quality than its older sibling. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633