This estate’s grand vin and second wine have both benefited immensely from stricter selections. The 2003 vintage’s heat and drought stressed this vineyard’s light soils, resulting in an atypical Palmer. The 2003 Palmer possesses a dark ruby/purple color, high, austere tannins, less flesh and mid-palate than usual, medium body, and a flowery black currant-scented bouquet. It lacks the extra dimension required aromatically, texturally, and flavor-wise to achieve their normal quality level. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.

Tasted at the Chateau Palmer vertical in London, the magnum of 2003 Chateau Palmer is clearly more advanced in colour than the 2000. It is missing a little fruit intensity on the nose: warm gravel and dried flowers make the first impression, a touch of truffle with time. The palate is medium-bodied with cassis and liquorice on the entry, plenty of glycerine, but nowhere near the tension or complexity of 2000, 2005 or 2010. Viscous and generous on the finish, this is a serviceable Palmer, but one that was clearly compromised by that infamous summer that favored the more clayey soils further north in the Médoc. Tasted May 2015.

Blackberry, licorice and tar follow through to a full-bodied palate, with firm, silky tannins and a medium berry and vanilla aftertaste. Juicy wine. Best after 2008. 6,000 cases made. -JS