Readers will face an enjoyable challenge determining whether they prefer the brilliant 2020 Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers or its 2019 predecessor, though sadly, in 2020 there are only four barrels—around 1,200 bottles—for a thirsty world. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, rose petals, orange zest and exotic spices, the wine is full-bodied, supple and layered, with a velvety attack that segues into a deep, concentrated mid-palate and a long, perfumed finish. Seamless and complete, it's a brilliant wine.

The 2019 Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers is stunning, and clearly rivals its 2015 predecessor as the best rendition of this cuvée that Bouley has produced to date. Mingling aromas of wild berries, rose petals, orange rind, sweet spices, loamy soil and black truffles in an inviting bouquet, it's full-bodied, seamless and multidimensional, with a deep and layered core of rich, vibrant fruit that almost entirely conceals an elegantly muscular chassis of ripe, powdery tannins. Concluding with a long, saline finish, it was vinified with some 75% whole bunches.

Rich and gourmand, the 2018 Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers has gained in aromatic range since I tasted it last year, mingling aromas of wild berries and plums with hints of peonies, musk, blood orange and exotic spices. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, its velvety tannins are entirely concealed in a lavish core of fruit that's girdled by lively acids. Concluding with a long, perfumed finish, it continues to be immensely promising.

The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers is still some way from its peak, but the accessibility of the vintage renders it immensely pleasurable already. A deep bouquet of wild berries, plums, orange rind, warm spices, rose petals and raw cocoa wafts from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, layered and elegantly muscular, it's a deep, concentrated wine, with a palate presence that's uncommon for 2017, which reflects Bouley's exigent viticulture, and a long, perfumed finish. Insert this into a blind tasting of top premiers crus from the C?te de Nuits and watch the results.