Bouley's 2006 Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers is showing especially well today and numbers among the sleeper vintages of this cuvée. Bursting with aromas of sweet berries, orange rind, plums, rose petals, raw cocoa and licorice, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and melted tannins. The asperity that, in December 2009, gave my predecessor pause has vanished. From 2006 on, Bouley began using a gentler must pump for his destemmed fruit and an elevator belt for whole bunches at cuvaison.

Streamlined and linear, with mineral and berry flavors wrapped tightly around the firm structure. It's well balanced, with a long aftertaste. A lean, austere style that needs time. Best from 2010 through 2018. 125 cases imported. -BS