The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers is still some way from its peak, but the accessibility of the vintage renders it immensely pleasurable already. A deep bouquet of wild berries, plums, orange rind, warm spices, rose petals and raw cocoa wafts from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, layered and elegantly muscular, it's a deep, concentrated wine, with a palate presence that's uncommon for 2017, which reflects Bouley's exigent viticulture, and a long, perfumed finish. Insert this into a blind tasting of top premiers crus from the C?te de Nuits and watch the results.