Among Albino Rocca’s various wines, the 2011 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto is one of the most delicate and feminine of them all. This wine speaks highly of the Ovello cru with steep, well-draining inclines that face the church steeple of Barbaresco. Pressed violets and roses segue to drying mineral tones, cola, sweet spice and toasted almond. The finish is silky smooth and seductively persistent. Drink: 2016-2026. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Various American importers, including: De Grazia Import, www.marcdegrazia.com; Robert Houde Wines, www.roberthoudewines.com; Classic Wine Imports, www.classicwineimports.com; Verity Wine Partners, www.veritywines.com; Sour Grapes, www.sourgrapeswine.com; Free Run Wine Merchants, www.freerunwinemerchants.com

The 2010 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto does not show the same intensity or clarity. It’s a beautiful wine by all standards, but the Barbaresco Ronchi has set the bar impressively high. This vineyard-designate shows drying mineral tones at the back of fresh fruit and savory spice. Surely, it needs more time to find composure. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. No known American importer.

Rocca's 2009 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto possesses lovely focus and energy. Crushed flowers, spices, mint and red fruit flow from this gracious, effortless Barbaresco. With time in the glass, hints of tar, leather and licorice become more prominent, adding to the wine's complexity. The slightly advanced color and at times feminine, fleeting finish suggest the 2009 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021. I was shocked and saddened to learn that proprietor Angelo Rocca recently passed away in a crash involving his own light airplane. I visited with Rocca in late August, just as the Moscato was coming in. Rocca embodied the spirit of the self-made Piemontese grower who took a sleepy family-run winery and turned it into a world-class estate in just one generation. He will be deeply missed. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

Rocca’s 2008 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto captures the personality of the vintage, but with more inner sweetness and perfume than the Ronchi. Sweet dark cherries, plums, licorice and tobacco wrap around the plush, creamy finish. This is a gorgeous, striking wine from Angelo Rocca. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a terrific set of wines from Angelo Rocca. The Barbareschi in particular have become much more refined over the last few vintages than was the case previously. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2007 Barbaresco Ovello - Vigna Loreto is everything I expect from a wine from one of Barbaresco’s top sites. This impeccable, elegant Barbaresco flows with red berries, flowers, anise and minerals in a weightless, ethereal style that takes on an extra gear of richness in expression of the vintage. All of the elements are beautifully in place as the Ovello - Vigna Loreto captivates the palate with layers of silky, finessed fruit. This is another gorgeous Barbaresco from Rocca. Astute readers will notice the slight name change in this wine that is the result of the newly passed regulations that limit how vineyard and plot names are used. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2027. These are three beautiful wines from proprietor Angelo Rocca. The house style seems to be moving towards a more elegant approach, and the early results are very promising. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; tel. (630) 422-1119