Rocca's 2009 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto possesses lovely focus and energy. Crushed flowers, spices, mint and red fruit flow from this gracious, effortless Barbaresco. With time in the glass, hints of tar, leather and licorice become more prominent, adding to the wine's complexity. The slightly advanced color and at times feminine, fleeting finish suggest the 2009 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021.
I was shocked and saddened to learn that proprietor Angelo Rocca recently passed away in a crash involving his own light airplane. I visited with Rocca in late August, just as the Moscato was coming in. Rocca embodied the spirit of the self-made Piemontese grower who took a sleepy family-run winery and turned it into a world-class estate in just one generation. He will be deeply missed.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887
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