This is a spectacular Barbaresco. It is awesomely thick, rich, and textured, with unreal opulence as well as glycerin levels that define the finest offerings from the 1997 vintage. Albino Rocca hit the bull's eye in 1997. The 1997 Barbaresco Vigneto Loreto is a luxuriously fruited, nearly over the top effort. Extremely full-bodied, and loaded with exotic, overripe, glycerin, smoke, cedar, and cherry flavors, it is a thick, unctuously-textured, slut of a Barbaresco. It may not make old bones, but who cares given the extraordinary hedonistic pleasures to be found now and over the next 7 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411