From the Chassagne side of this grand cru – one of two parcels being terraced, upper-elevation – the Prieur 2006 Montrachet displays an impressive aromatic layering of saline and crushed stone minerality; citrus oil; ripe peach; and musky, decadent floral perfume, like narcissus and fading lilies. A similar complexity prevails on the voluminous palate, albeit with some disturbingly obvious notes of lees and resinous new wood that will hopefully integrate after bottling. A deep nuttiness enhances the sense of depth. This finishes like a veritable force of nature, with no lack of energy to match its weight and its dense layers of flavor, but a bit inelegant and unrefined. I would anticipate at least 8-10 years of fascinating evolution during which it should reveal its full glory. (The less-intriguing 2005 combines fat and richness with an almost red wine-like sense of structure and grip, although it too displays rather obvious woodiness.)
Harvest began here September 20, and oenologist Nadine Gublin (who recently added wine making direction at Brocard in Chablis to her duties) insisted their Chardonnay was not really ripe before them – even though its evolution was rapid – and that very little triage was necessary. Malo-lactic transformation was exceedingly protracted, and some wines were not finished even in November, 2007, when I last tasted them. The entire collection was rather obviously marked by their (40-100%) new wood; less so by its routinely over-14% alcohol.
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.
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