Following the loss – to Remoissenet – of the Montrachet fruit he had accessed through 2004, Morey was able this year to purchase and raise a single barrel of 2007 Montrachet. This is unusually bright and firm for its appellation, and boasts a tactile sense of strong extract, deep toasted hazelnut and pistachio richness. An intriguing and seductive aura of iris and narcissus perfume, musk, and white truffle wafts from nose to tail, speaking of which the finish is absolutely gripping yet also far more refreshing than I would anticipate from a Montrachet. Yes, it is rich and voluminous, but so full of energy and so clean and firm in its underlying suggestion of wet stone, as well as so alluring in its floral, animal, and fungal dimensions, that any thought or feel of heaviness is banished. This should be wonderful to follow for 10-12 years for the few lucky and wealthy enough to access it. Pierre Morey bottled the 2007s under his negociant label Morey-Blanc in early Spring, a bit ahead of his estate wines in the expectation that the former will open-up sooner for early enjoyment. I did not taste all of Morey’s offerings under this label, and some of the less expensive bottlings that I did taste were slightly inharmonious. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

The 2003 Montrachet (white) reveals an aromatic profile of sweet butter and pears. Toasted minerals, cream, dried honey-dusted minerals, and grilled oak can be found in its sappy, silky-textured character. Projected maturity: now-2015. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661