Sumptuous and dramatic, Bouchard's 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru bursts with aromas of honeyed peaches, toasted nuts, white flowers, orange oil and fresh bread. Full-bodied, textural and enveloping, it's satiny and gourmand, with lively acids and a rich, expansive finish. If this year's Cabotte is more tightly wound and incisive, the Montrachet is irresistible for its power and scale.

Revisited from bottle, the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, exhibiting a profound bouquet of yellow orchard fruit, fresh peach, white flowers, honeycomb, freshly baked bread and wheat toast. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a textural attack that segues into a layered core that's underpinned by lively acids, concluding with a long and resonant finish. While this is already quite aromatically flamboyant, at least a decade's patience will be rewarded.