The 2007 Barolo Prapo is a bit more ethereal than the Cerretta. It shows plenty of Serralunga power and muscle, but less in the way of fruit. Sweet spices, plums and anise are some of the notes that emerge from the glass. Deceptively medium in body, the Prapo nevertheless shows lovely length and plenty of polish through to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Sergio Germano is doing wonderful work in Serralunga. There is no doubt his wines deserve more recognition. As is often the case, I find the Barolo Riserva from Lazzarito – one of Serralunga’s top sites – too heavily marked by oak. Otherwise, these are all very fine offerings. Germano recently inherited a parcel in the famed Vigna Rionda. That vineyard is now being replanted, but once the vines are in production, Germano will have a fabulous quartet of Serralunga vineyards from which to draw. But the pressure is on, as there is now no reason the wines can’t and shouldn’t be great. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159; Sussex Wine Merchants Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9694