The 1990 Barolo Parej offers a touch of chewy sweetness that pads and emboldens the wine from start to finish. Oak-driven nuances of baking spice, barbecue smoke and cinnamon stick are the most apparent aromatic components and there’s a good amount of dark fruit, prune and blackcurrant left at the back. Subtle tones of licorice, cola and dark truffle add a pleasing level of varietal character and create a nice sense of vertical lift of buoyancy especially where the bouquet is concerned. The mouthfeel shows less depth, however, and the wine spreads evenly and thickly across the palate in a direct and heavy-footed manner. On the plus side is the general youthfulness of the wine despite its 24 years of age. This Barolo feels tangy and rich. It will continue to march forward over the next ten years or so. Drink: 2014-2022.