The 2003 Piastraia (equal parts Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese) is an outstanding effort for the vintage. Medium in body, it offers very ripe, almost-candied, cherries, tobacco and earthiness with a classy, elegant personality, offering with superb balance and notable finesse. Here the Sangiovese seems to have given this wine a nice sense of freshness and lift. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. This is a beautiful set of wines from Michele Satta, one of the pioneers in making high-class wines in the region. Only the 2004 Bolgheri Rosso was disappointing. Satta’s vineyards are located in and around Bolgheri and Castagneto Carducci. Unlike many of his colleagues, Satta has chosen to emphasize Sangiovese, which he says remains his favorite varietal. Importer: At press time Michele Satta was in the process of changing importers.

This blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah is a tad too ripe and jammy. Chocolate fudge and ripe blueberry are backed by strawberry preserves, cinnamon, exotic spice and ground clove. The tannins are chewy.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 89