The dark ruby/garnet-colored 1998 Barolo Bricco Gattera is a mid-weight, soft, finesse-styled effort displaying some influence of barriques. It offers good richness on the attack, but narrows in the mouth. I would not be surprised to see it close down to reveal more tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2015. Importers: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900; Verdoni Imports, Hawthorne, NJ; tel. (973) 636-0800, and Villa Italia, San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060