The 2005 Barolo Costa Grimaldi possesses greater thrust and minerality in a fresh, vibrant style. Dark cherries, menthol, spices and minerals are some of the nuances that emerge as this structured Barolo opens up in the glass. The wine offers a final blossom of menthol and sweet spices on the long, refined finish. The fruit for Costa Grimaldi, part of the Via Nuova vineyard in Barolo planted in 1962, was picked on October 18th. The wine spent 18 months in barriques (60% new) followed by 12 months in Vicard French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2023. This is another very strong set of wines from Einaudi and dashing proprietor Matteo Sardagna. Moderate yields, longer periods of skin contact, an increasing reliance on cask and lower amounts of new French oak are just some of the changes that have taken place as this historic property once again takes its place among the Piedmont’s top estates. In 2005 the Barolos spent a total of 3-4 weeks on the skins and were aged in a combination of small barrels and medium-sized casks. These dense, fruit-driven Barolos were among the most vibrant wines I encountered. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

A veil of toasted oak temporarily obscures a potentially very fine wine; should improve dramatically as that recedes.

The Costa Grimaldi cru is celebrated for producing some of the best Barolo fruit. This expression of Nebbiolo focuses on berry freshness and a complex rendering of delicate spice and smoke. The wine feels tight and tonic in the mouth and ends with lingering mineral and piquant spice.——M.L.(2/1/2010)—— 92