The estate’s 2003 Barolo Costa Grimaldi is made in a linear, focused style, with an additional layer of sweet spiciness from the oak that complements the poised, ripe dark fruit. It, too, reveals outstanding persistence on the palate and a long, fresh finish. It should offer highly pleasurable drinking in another year or two. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. Einaudi has produced an especially strong set of Barolos in 2003. Proprietor Matteo Sardagna told me he wasn’t convinced about the quality of the vintage at the outset so he decided to use lower percentage of new oak than normal. That turns out to have been a very wise decision, as these wines offer superb richness as well as detail, the latter of which was particularly hard to come by in 2003. Readers should also consider the estate’s Dolcettos, which are among the most unique wines being made in the region. The Vigna Tecc is particularly noteworthy, and is now labeled under the new Dogliani designation. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

This wine needed time in the glass to really show its stuff. At first, a touch volatile and funky, this soon blew off, and the wine showed plenty of sweet fruit, rose petal and licorice. Fairly evolved, this is a wine that should be enjoyed over the next five years.——M.G.(12/31/2007)—— 87